Holiday Feast Revisited

I have spent years fighting the tide of tradition for holiday meals...turkey paella, what was I thinking??? This year I broke down and joined the rest of the world and cooked up a feast of the usual culprits. Slow roasted capon, shaved brussel sprouts with bacon and sherry, potato gratin, sweet potatoes with candied pecans, etc.

Anyway, for those who have begun following my humble prose...Happy Holidays to all and blessings of a joyful and productive New Year!

I will return with some New Year's thoughts on the state of menu development in a few days.
Best Wishes,
Jeff

Palate A.D.D.

That's A.D.D., as in "attention deficit disorder". That's how I feel sometimes when I am eating. I take a few bites and then I am ready for another flavor experience. There are very few things that I enjoy large portions of (eggs, cold cereal, pommes frites, ziti with meat sauce, really good chicken parm, pizza, the pork buns at momofuko, and a few other greats that I have had on my travels). All really simple, but perfect in their own way. Generally speaking by the tenth bite of a meal I am ready to move on. It's not that I am full, it's just "palate boredom". I can come back for more provided a different part of my tongue has been satiated. I think this is why I was so drawn to the tapas style of dining and therefore the inception of my former restaurant CIENTO. I think most people like small plate dining so they can sample a variety of flavors but for me its all about "flavor attention span"...perhaps I am on to something here. There must be a link between cravable foods and foods that hold the palate's attention. Perhaps its the way your palate and diet evolve as a chef - so many years of standing and grazing on the line. Eating the few slices of duck breast that don't make it to the plate, the first crepe out of the pan, the braised lamb shank that fell off the bone as you removed it from the broth, the first few meatballs as you are testing the seasoning. Basically, you eat your way through the day...if wine is nearby, what could be better?

Banh Mi...what's that?

So what could be better than duck liver pate with braised pork shoulder, pickled vegetables and spicy mayonnaise??? You've got me. Banh Mi was a tough sell last night amongst the cocktail dresses and suits at our event. But then again, I've never been driven by being popular...I figure if one person walked away saying they understand layered flavors and the amazing meld of cultures represented in that simple sandwich - then my work is done. Anyway, here's a picture of our team setting up for the crowds. I am back in the test kitchen this morning thinking about what folks want to eat during the holiday season this year. In year's past it has been about the celebratory items...Dover Sole, Rack of Lamb, King Crab...what will this year bring? Cocktails, I am sure. Unemployment on the rise, US auto industry in shambles, businesses closing in every community...what do people eat during these times? Everyone says "comfort" food; but what that's like guessing someone's lucky number or favorite color...Everyone is different. For me everything is comfort food - food is nourishment to the body and soul.

What's on our "Development" board...

Okay, day two of blogging from the test kitchen...in my world, development happens for a number of different reasons. Here's what's on our plate right now: Banh Mi and Smoked Pollock Chowder with cream biscuits for a charity event this weekend. Nothing like Banh Mi for breakfast...ours has duck pate, braised pork, pickled veggies and that killer mayo on a Vietnamese Baguette...YUM. I'll post some photos on Sunday after the event. As for other projects...our current development is driven by the desire to deliver a value to our guests - We're certainly not alone in that respect. Check out my friend Evan Mallet's restaurant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire...he's bending over backwards to deliver what our economic times require - comfort food at a great price. Check out his website www.blacktrumpetbistro.com .

Why do we create?

For me, it's about creating items that people will crave...certainly easier said then done! Start with cravable flavors: salty, sweet, spicy, sour and Umami. Think about the season, location and audience...finding just the right texture, temperature, presentation...what's the formula? Hitting just the right combination is the goal. Understanding what people crave is a key ingredient to creating a hit! I crave the perfect lobster roll...what makes them great? You tell me...