Corn In My Teeth - Why A Great Dish Never Made the Menu

"I get corn stuck in my teeth..."

Really?!  That’s why a dish didn’t make the menu: because corn gets stuck in their teeth.  Picture the scene...The guy next to you was worried that he might have to roll his sleeves up at lunch to eat the dish.  Laughing on the outside, I was crying on the inside.

I’d developed a great take on the classic Mexican corn dish … This version featured brick oven roasted corn on the cob, slathered with a smoked paprika aioli studded with salty feta and fresh basil.  The perfect combination of sweet corn, spice, salt and creamy goodness.  Definitely a break from the traditional vegetable side dish that our restaurant sold and certainly less classic that my predecessors had presented.  But the dish was seasonal, on trend, easy to make and damn good.

The tasting panel who approves our menu items aren’t our target customer…and they know that.  A funny thing happened during the tasting; they all loved the dish, fought for second helpings and commented on how delicious it was.  So why didn’t it make the menu?  Corn gets stuck in your teeth and it’s messy.  Um, we have pizza, that’s messy and wings…they get stuck in your teeth. Both of which you eat with your hands and sometimes require a little sleeve-rolling. 

So, three months later when July’s food magazines were featuring summertime favorites from around the country were showcasing versions of the Mexican corn dish, I was sad - Sad that we missed an opportunity. Like knowing there’s a great party that you can attend but not making it because you put the wrong day on your calendar and stayed home and watched reruns instead.

Better luck this year...I'm back at it and this time corn will make the menu!

Blue Collar Chef, White Collar Job - Essay

       Under my desk are two pairs of shoes; one set of worn black kitchen clogs and a pair of polished dress shoes.  It’s Wednesday, 9am and I am flipping through power point slides making corrections and adjustments.  I slip off my running shoes and into my “office” shoes. 

Today is no different than dozens of other workdays this year:

• A morning-stop at one of the restaurants to check on food prep for an afternoon presentation, then over to the office. 
• 10 minutes shooting the shit with my buddy in purchasing, then down to the finance department to grab the latest numbers on lunch sales. 
• A quick call to my chef to make sure we’re all set for Thursday’s photo shoot. 

The day will continue like this, back and forth between the boardroom and the kitchen; from tasting sauces and razzing a cook about Brazil’s (soccer team) recent loss to standing firm on my direction with a group of greying C-level executives. 

Rewind 17 years and this looks nothing like how my life as a chef started.

In 1996 on any given Wednesday, I would stroll downtown in shorts, clogs and a sweatshirt with a coffee in hand.  Arrive at my restaurant around 8am, greeted by empty trash barrels and the bread delivery.  The day would unfold with me scarcely leaving my small kitchen.  At 23 I had no idea what lay ahead and not much concern about it either.  Life was good, surrounded by friends, good food and a successful restaurant.  Everyday was a battle against the clock, service begins at 5pm ready or not and the prep list never seemed to get any shorter.  Physically demanding and totally repetitive my work was rewarded by smiling guests, and a blossoming reputation.

Then life’s journey took hold and through a series of job changes and opportunities my life and work changed.  There is still a ticking clock and not enough time to complete my tasks but my job looks unrecognizable from where I started.

When asked what I do for a living, I say the following: “I’m a corporate chef for a restaurant company”.  This is usually followed by one of three questions: 

• “So, do you actually cook anymore?”
•  “Um, so are you like in charge of the menu?”  Or my favorite...
•   “Oh, I know that place, which one do you work at?”

I make decisions that affect 12 million people a year.  My food choices touch the lips of complete strangers in towns I’ve never heard of and cooked by people I will never meet.  I’m a blue-collar craftsman making executive level decisions. 

Behind most large restaurant companies, food manufacturers, hotel chains or football stadiums is someone like me.  Well, somewhat like me any way.

We are “Corporate Chefs”, Directors of R&D, Vice Presidents of Culinary Development, even Chief Innovation Officers.  We all started in the trenches, learning the craft, cooking for one guest at a time - now we're busy changing the face of an industry and affecting the lives of millions.

2Ovens was born December 3, 2012.  An incredible new concept featuring pizzas and brick oven dishes.  Wine and beer on tap and a selection of chef inspired cocktails, this restaurant was the brain-child of a few of us Bertucci's folks with the guidance of Continuum design - a Newton, Ma based consulting firm.  Check out the recent article in Fast Company Mag about our development process.  My favorite dishes include: Piri Piri roasted 1/2 chicken, the Brick Oven Burger, Rosemary and Lemon Spiced Pistachios and the Mushroom, Fontina Pizza.  Stay tuned for more news on what's next for our new venture.

Summer Development Begins

Just a quick post to show what's on deck for summer flavors.  Simple, bright and totally new for our guests. 

The Multi Grain Journey

Round one of a multi grain pizza dough. Everytime I take on a project like this, I am reminded of how satisfying baking is. A genuine balance between science and art - each ingredient playing an integral role in function and flavor.

This version combines barley and rye flours with whole wheat and white flour. Additional mixin's include flax seed and honey. My goal is to find the perfect balance of chew and crunch. I dream about the whole wheat sourdough that Gordon Hammersley has been makig for years at his restaurant: the texture and flavor are incredible and nothing in the experience is sacrificed with the use of whole grains. There are so few good examples of multigrain pizza dough - one's that keep you coming back for another slice. I imagine Fall (seasonal) combinations using this dough to include: butternut, blue cheese and grilled red onion.

Round two begins this weekend as I tweak the barley flour percentage - it seems to add to the caramelization and is known to aid in fermentation: those are all good things! Stay tuned for the updates.

The perfect pizza

Personal preference aside, the perfect pizza is all about the balance of ingredients. I'm not a fan of gobs of toppings, this Margherita is a great example of Pizza Perfection.

Menu In the Making

When I was the chef of Lindbergh's Crossing (in Portsmouth, NH) in the 90's, I had no idea what lay ahead. Our menu changes consisted of some intense brainstorming sessions (usually accompanied by wine) and then a day or two of prep to get ready. Boy was I spoiled. My first menu change with Bertucci's shares only one thing in common - the brainstorming. Not to bore you with details but here's a few bullet points of what trainspired over the last 6 months to get to where we are today:

• Step One: Strategy presentation to the executive team


• Step Two: Presentation of tactical steps to meet the strategy


• Steps Three - Six: Tastings with the executive team on each section of the menu, sharing recipe concepts


• Step Seven: Online surveys and focus groups of menu item concepts


• Step Eight: Recipe Development (including sourcing, operational concerns, etc.)


• Step Nine - Eleven: Begin Implementation process - now we get to the fun stuff when we add in the finance, marketing, training and regulatory departments.


• Step Twelve: Take a deep breath


• Step Thirteen: Produce media content: menu pictures, digital video, ad campaign materials, etc.


• See the picture above - that's me getting ready to film a session of on line media.


• Step Fourteen: The launch - starts this March with some kick-off events, restaurant level training and a media push.

Amazing process: we've developed 29 new recipes a whole new menu layout and a new and evolved culinary voice for the brand.

Funny thing is, we will be starting the process all over again in a month as we begin working on the Summer and Fall recipes.

Stay tuned for more pictures and details of the launch.

Cheers,

Jeff