Friday, February 27, 2009

"bonne femme"...simple fare

Bonne femme actually translates to "good wife" but the jist is authentic, rustic and delicious!

Here I go again, tauting the positive attributes of simple, honest cooking. I can't seem to help my self...every time I braise something slowly, roast a chicken in a Dutch oven, or as luck may have it make a beautiful Paella. It is the layers of flavor that are created through the slow cooking process that I love so much. To illustrate my point, I am going to explain how I make Paella.





Starting with a well seasoned Paellera, bring to a medium heat (over a wood-fired grill is the best) First, render some good quality Spanish Chorizo...very different from the Portuguese version which doesn't have the great smoked paprika, and the fat ratio is so different.


Once the chorizo has released its precious fat, I remove from the pan and add some shrimp...my goal here is to just sear the outside of the shrimp. Two things happen: first, the shrimp pick up the great flavor of the chorizo, but even more important is the flavor that begins building in the Paella pan. Remove the shrimp once browned well on one side and into the pan add the vegetables of your choosing...I usually go with leeks, some red bell peppers and corn during the summertime. Once the vegetables are slightly tender add some garlic and season with salt and paprika. Now, start adding the rice (again it needs to be a short grain rice from Spain, "Bamba" is one of my favorites but something from Valencia is key). Stir well...veggies, rice and paprika and add in the browned chorizo. So here is the critical step, add just enough stock (I bloom the saffron into the stock) to cover the rice and adjust the heat so that the liquid just barely simmers. The fun part starts...once the rice is about half way cooked, start adding the seafood you have chosen, starting with the species with the longer cooking times. Here is the order that I used last week: clams, mussels, lobster, shrimp, snails and then squid. You may need to add a little more stock, but that depends on what you see happening in your pan...so pay attention and use your instincts. Just towards the very end, I add lemon wedges along the edge of the pan and finish with some freshly chopped herbs (basil and parsley).

Obviously this isn't a specific recipe, just the technique...but give it a try.

Its all about layers...


The Paella in the picture above is from a recent 4 course dinner... the main course was this paella, served family style...followed by dessert of churros with goat's milk caramel.

Until next time...