Corn In My Teeth - Why A Great Dish Never Made the Menu

"I get corn stuck in my teeth..."

Really?!  That’s why a dish didn’t make the menu: because corn gets stuck in their teeth.  Picture the scene...The guy next to you was worried that he might have to roll his sleeves up at lunch to eat the dish.  Laughing on the outside, I was crying on the inside.

I’d developed a great take on the classic Mexican corn dish … This version featured brick oven roasted corn on the cob, slathered with a smoked paprika aioli studded with salty feta and fresh basil.  The perfect combination of sweet corn, spice, salt and creamy goodness.  Definitely a break from the traditional vegetable side dish that our restaurant sold and certainly less classic that my predecessors had presented.  But the dish was seasonal, on trend, easy to make and damn good.

The tasting panel who approves our menu items aren’t our target customer…and they know that.  A funny thing happened during the tasting; they all loved the dish, fought for second helpings and commented on how delicious it was.  So why didn’t it make the menu?  Corn gets stuck in your teeth and it’s messy.  Um, we have pizza, that’s messy and wings…they get stuck in your teeth. Both of which you eat with your hands and sometimes require a little sleeve-rolling. 

So, three months later when July’s food magazines were featuring summertime favorites from around the country were showcasing versions of the Mexican corn dish, I was sad - Sad that we missed an opportunity. Like knowing there’s a great party that you can attend but not making it because you put the wrong day on your calendar and stayed home and watched reruns instead.

Better luck this year...I'm back at it and this time corn will make the menu!

Blue Collar Chef, White Collar Job - Essay

       Under my desk are two pairs of shoes; one set of worn black kitchen clogs and a pair of polished dress shoes.  It’s Wednesday, 9am and I am flipping through power point slides making corrections and adjustments.  I slip off my running shoes and into my “office” shoes. 

Today is no different than dozens of other workdays this year:

• A morning-stop at one of the restaurants to check on food prep for an afternoon presentation, then over to the office. 
• 10 minutes shooting the shit with my buddy in purchasing, then down to the finance department to grab the latest numbers on lunch sales. 
• A quick call to my chef to make sure we’re all set for Thursday’s photo shoot. 

The day will continue like this, back and forth between the boardroom and the kitchen; from tasting sauces and razzing a cook about Brazil’s (soccer team) recent loss to standing firm on my direction with a group of greying C-level executives. 

Rewind 17 years and this looks nothing like how my life as a chef started.

In 1996 on any given Wednesday, I would stroll downtown in shorts, clogs and a sweatshirt with a coffee in hand.  Arrive at my restaurant around 8am, greeted by empty trash barrels and the bread delivery.  The day would unfold with me scarcely leaving my small kitchen.  At 23 I had no idea what lay ahead and not much concern about it either.  Life was good, surrounded by friends, good food and a successful restaurant.  Everyday was a battle against the clock, service begins at 5pm ready or not and the prep list never seemed to get any shorter.  Physically demanding and totally repetitive my work was rewarded by smiling guests, and a blossoming reputation.

Then life’s journey took hold and through a series of job changes and opportunities my life and work changed.  There is still a ticking clock and not enough time to complete my tasks but my job looks unrecognizable from where I started.

When asked what I do for a living, I say the following: “I’m a corporate chef for a restaurant company”.  This is usually followed by one of three questions: 

• “So, do you actually cook anymore?”
•  “Um, so are you like in charge of the menu?”  Or my favorite...
•   “Oh, I know that place, which one do you work at?”

I make decisions that affect 12 million people a year.  My food choices touch the lips of complete strangers in towns I’ve never heard of and cooked by people I will never meet.  I’m a blue-collar craftsman making executive level decisions. 

Behind most large restaurant companies, food manufacturers, hotel chains or football stadiums is someone like me.  Well, somewhat like me any way.

We are “Corporate Chefs”, Directors of R&D, Vice Presidents of Culinary Development, even Chief Innovation Officers.  We all started in the trenches, learning the craft, cooking for one guest at a time - now we're busy changing the face of an industry and affecting the lives of millions.

2Ovens was born December 3, 2012.  An incredible new concept featuring pizzas and brick oven dishes.  Wine and beer on tap and a selection of chef inspired cocktails, this restaurant was the brain-child of a few of us Bertucci's folks with the guidance of Continuum design - a Newton, Ma based consulting firm.  Check out the recent article in Fast Company Mag about our development process.  My favorite dishes include: Piri Piri roasted 1/2 chicken, the Brick Oven Burger, Rosemary and Lemon Spiced Pistachios and the Mushroom, Fontina Pizza.  Stay tuned for more news on what's next for our new venture.

Summer Development Begins

Just a quick post to show what's on deck for summer flavors.  Simple, bright and totally new for our guests. 

The Multi Grain Journey

Round one of a multi grain pizza dough. Everytime I take on a project like this, I am reminded of how satisfying baking is. A genuine balance between science and art - each ingredient playing an integral role in function and flavor.

This version combines barley and rye flours with whole wheat and white flour. Additional mixin's include flax seed and honey. My goal is to find the perfect balance of chew and crunch. I dream about the whole wheat sourdough that Gordon Hammersley has been makig for years at his restaurant: the texture and flavor are incredible and nothing in the experience is sacrificed with the use of whole grains. There are so few good examples of multigrain pizza dough - one's that keep you coming back for another slice. I imagine Fall (seasonal) combinations using this dough to include: butternut, blue cheese and grilled red onion.

Round two begins this weekend as I tweak the barley flour percentage - it seems to add to the caramelization and is known to aid in fermentation: those are all good things! Stay tuned for the updates.

The perfect pizza

Personal preference aside, the perfect pizza is all about the balance of ingredients. I'm not a fan of gobs of toppings, this Margherita is a great example of Pizza Perfection.

Menu In the Making

When I was the chef of Lindbergh's Crossing (in Portsmouth, NH) in the 90's, I had no idea what lay ahead. Our menu changes consisted of some intense brainstorming sessions (usually accompanied by wine) and then a day or two of prep to get ready. Boy was I spoiled. My first menu change with Bertucci's shares only one thing in common - the brainstorming. Not to bore you with details but here's a few bullet points of what trainspired over the last 6 months to get to where we are today:

• Step One: Strategy presentation to the executive team


• Step Two: Presentation of tactical steps to meet the strategy


• Steps Three - Six: Tastings with the executive team on each section of the menu, sharing recipe concepts


• Step Seven: Online surveys and focus groups of menu item concepts


• Step Eight: Recipe Development (including sourcing, operational concerns, etc.)


• Step Nine - Eleven: Begin Implementation process - now we get to the fun stuff when we add in the finance, marketing, training and regulatory departments.


• Step Twelve: Take a deep breath


• Step Thirteen: Produce media content: menu pictures, digital video, ad campaign materials, etc.


• See the picture above - that's me getting ready to film a session of on line media.


• Step Fourteen: The launch - starts this March with some kick-off events, restaurant level training and a media push.

Amazing process: we've developed 29 new recipes a whole new menu layout and a new and evolved culinary voice for the brand.

Funny thing is, we will be starting the process all over again in a month as we begin working on the Summer and Fall recipes.

Stay tuned for more pictures and details of the launch.

Cheers,

Jeff

The Perfect Meal...The Sandwich!

Don't underestimate this seemingly simple and "common" meal. This is a cautionary tale however; not an endorsement for your local sandwich shop. Keep it simple, respect the ingredients and learn the balance. Don't over do it with funky fillings!

If you start with great bread then the carrier can become the focal point - Good olive oil or butter to griddle the bread to golden and toasty. If this is the case then stick to the 4 ingredient rule: a spread, a crunchy element (think pickles), something creamy and something meaty. The picture here is a classic pairing: smoked pork, goats milk brie, pickles and grainy mustard - the Bread is a Tuscan Boule griddle with olive oil. Don't be afraid to use salt and pepper - sandwiches are not exempt. And when ever possible, a balance of hot and cold temperatures add to the overall experience.

The next time you build a sandwich...take your time, respect the ingredients and build with intention.
Enjoy!

Cinnamon Roll Exploration

OMG...gooey, delicious and the perfect way to start a Sunday morning.
My favorite version so far is a brioche based dough, sugar glaze and lots of butter and cinnamon.

Candy Land...

Hard Candy...only 4 ingredients, a little danger and lots of fun. Today's experiment; orange...

At home in the kitchen

Something happened a few months ago in my house that has both present and future significance. My daughter has taken a genuine interest in cooking...well that's not entirely accurate. Her interest is more specifically in baking. For anyone that knows my daughter, its common knowledge that she's a picky eater. Lot's of kids are; but for a chef and foodie, its a bit of a bummer. The good news is she loves almost everything in the pastry world...breads, pastries, candies, etc. The reason this is good news has nothing to do with nutrition of course but instead for learning the art and craft of cooking. Over the last few weeks we have tackled a handful of recipes: cakes, breads, donuts, meringues, and even stepped into the savory kitchen to make gnocchi. That's what this entry is about. Great friends of ours were coming to stay for the weekend and a request was made for gnocchi with mushrooms, peas and truffle. The light bulb went off in my head...its just like making any other dough, my daughter will dig this....

Granted she never tasted the final creation but hey, that's not really the point.
I mentioned this has significance...here's why. As my daughter learns the skills of frosting cakes, rolling out doughs and much more, she is opening her eyes to possible career paths. It's a creative outlet and skill that really can pay the bills and after almost 25 years in kitchens, I can tell you that you never go hungry and you'll always have friends.

Tomorrow we are making hard candy and you can bet she'll be trying that....

2011 - a new era

2011 is a year of change! After nearly 5 years as the Corporate Chef for Legal Sea Foods, I have ventured off to see another side of the industry. My current role as Chef, Product Development and Commercialization is about as far from what I pictured for my career as I could get. As a budding chef and restaurateur in the late 90's, my image of career growth was centered around the growing accolades for culinary execution in small, alluring and popular restaurants. So now I am a chef for an International Food Manufacturer based in Buffalo, NY. We produce over 2000 products in over 50 manufacturing facilities across the globe...incredible.

So with the change in jobs, I am re-committing to regular posts to this blog. My goal now is to include the audience (of whatever size) in the behind the scenes journey of development for a global manufacturer. Hopefully we will explore the world of food together and see what it takes to take a concept to market on a massive scale.

Next Stop - Buffalo, New York...

Giving back...

As a chef, so much of my time, energy and mental space is consumed by the "business" of food. Not necessarily the "art" anymore but the hardcore business. From sourcing, training and retaining great people to finding local, sustainable and flavorful ingredients...the act of coming up with memorable recipes that people will love still exists - but ultimately it comes down to designing dishes that guests will spend their hard earned money on, again and again. I mean that's sort of what we all signed up for...make food as "craveable" as possible so that folks keep coming back. So as we all get wrapped up in this business of food, its so easy to forget how many people in our communities lack access to enough food, healthy options...or the right education on how to prepare what they do have.

Lately my attention has turned to an organization called Operation Front line, its a dynamic program that is part of the National organization SOS. The project brings healthy cooking education to people in their own communities that are living on a reduced budget. Its real people, teaching real people how to prepare healthy meals for themselves and their families. The challenge is getting more people involved so that more families can benefit from this service.

Time is precious - one reason that many people struggle to get involved...but life is made more precious when we are making an impact in our communities. As chefs we spend so much of our lives surrounded by abundance...its our responsibility to share that abundance! Get involved!

Pork Belly Blues

Happy Fall!
I suppose that I should change the title of my blog to quarterly thoughts from the test kitchen as I am certainly not a regular blogger.
I have a gripe to share...its more of an observation. Can we please move on from pork belly. I know you might be saying to yourself..."why?"...pork belly rocks....and in moderation, I agree. But we have gone overboard.
Pork belly made its way back onto the scene a few years ago and I have had some truly amazing dishes with this succulent, yummy cut of pig - including David Chang's famous pork buns on numerous occasions.
It is unfortunately becoming the tuna tartar of the 80's the sliders of the 90's. I fell victim to the urge a few years ago, looking for any opportunity to pair a crispy piece of pork belly with halibut or salmon. Next stop, the Applebees near you.
But its not just the overuse that gets to me, its the gluttony factor. Maybe I am getting old and this is the first sign, but I get more excited about farro and squash and things that make my body feel in balance and alive. I don't mind when the wine gives me a hang-over but the food shouldn't! Until next time...think, food for life...

A request for vegetable inspiration...

I fell out of my usual blogging rhythm...sorry about that...Well it's Spring in New England and after months of root vegetables and produce from other parts of the world we are finally seeing signs of "edible life". I have been on a journey over the last few years, trying to figure out how to bring as much local produce to a large restaurant company as I can...I have accomplished this with varied success. There are all sorts of collaborations and associations inspired by the mission of bringing the "farm to fork"...whose assistance I have solicited. And last summer was the perfect storm, as social responsibility met $4 gas prices. Everyone wanted celery from their home-state because fuel charges had evened the playing field. But the challenges of getting local anything infront of 8 million guests is tricky business. But that's my deal not yours...So has the "economy" changed peoples desire to eat local? Are guests driven as much by a "deal" this summer as they were a "local meal" in season's past? I am endeavoring to do both. What's on the menu this year you ask... I am looking for feedback from any readers out there. What veggies do you crave this year? Hopefully micro greens and baby vegetables are behind us and we can grow up and eat full sized produce together. So let me know...what's the collective palate looking for this summer...Stay tuned.

"bonne femme"...simple fare

Bonne femme actually translates to "good wife" but the jist is authentic, rustic and delicious!

Here I go again, tauting the positive attributes of simple, honest cooking. I can't seem to help my self...every time I braise something slowly, roast a chicken in a Dutch oven, or as luck may have it make a beautiful Paella. It is the layers of flavor that are created through the slow cooking process that I love so much. To illustrate my point, I am going to explain how I make Paella.





Starting with a well seasoned Paellera, bring to a medium heat (over a wood-fired grill is the best) First, render some good quality Spanish Chorizo...very different from the Portuguese version which doesn't have the great smoked paprika, and the fat ratio is so different.


Once the chorizo has released its precious fat, I remove from the pan and add some shrimp...my goal here is to just sear the outside of the shrimp. Two things happen: first, the shrimp pick up the great flavor of the chorizo, but even more important is the flavor that begins building in the Paella pan. Remove the shrimp once browned well on one side and into the pan add the vegetables of your choosing...I usually go with leeks, some red bell peppers and corn during the summertime. Once the vegetables are slightly tender add some garlic and season with salt and paprika. Now, start adding the rice (again it needs to be a short grain rice from Spain, "Bamba" is one of my favorites but something from Valencia is key). Stir well...veggies, rice and paprika and add in the browned chorizo. So here is the critical step, add just enough stock (I bloom the saffron into the stock) to cover the rice and adjust the heat so that the liquid just barely simmers. The fun part starts...once the rice is about half way cooked, start adding the seafood you have chosen, starting with the species with the longer cooking times. Here is the order that I used last week: clams, mussels, lobster, shrimp, snails and then squid. You may need to add a little more stock, but that depends on what you see happening in your pan...so pay attention and use your instincts. Just towards the very end, I add lemon wedges along the edge of the pan and finish with some freshly chopped herbs (basil and parsley).

Obviously this isn't a specific recipe, just the technique...but give it a try.

Its all about layers...

The Paella in the picture above is from a recent 4 course dinner... the main course was this paella, served family style...followed by dessert of churros with goat's milk caramel.

Until next time...

If I knew then, what I know now...

We all say it, as we grow and look back on our past work...."if I knew then what I know now..." Would my choices have been different? Menu writing, management style, priorities...how would they have been different with my current perspective. One of my greatest joys has been seeing the growth and progress of some of the idividuals that I have worked with over the years. In my seemingly young career, I have now seen a 5th former employ go on to open their own restaurant. Amazingly, 3 former sous chefs are now chef/owners of their own properties. So, in short, whatever I've done in the past it has made it seem possible and for that matter desirable to enter into this crazy business and put one's name on the door. So, if I knew then, what I know now, what would I do differently. Nothing! My advise to all that have chosen the path of ownership...enjoy every minute of it, every little detail. Bringing in the garbage cans on Christmas morning when the whole city is quiet. Answering the fire department's call at 3am to a false alarm. Getting your first great review. Being the first one in the building and the last one out, far too often. The look on the guest's face when they tell you it was the best meal of their lives. People ask me from time to time if I ever want to have my own restaurant again, and my answer is usually the same...you never know...

What happened to the classics???

Why must everything be NEW and innovative? I know that being in the development business, I might sound like a heretic. But let's discuss this for a second. The culinary arts used to be considered a trade, more like brick laying than impressionist painting. Nowadays with the growing popularity of restaurants such as Alinea, WD-50 and the hundreds of others dabbling in "molecular-gastronomy" there is a growing generation of cooks that are only driven by the "new and different". I fear we are loosing touch with the true building blocks of the art form. Bread baking and charcuterie are great examples of lost skills. Ask a budding chef to make a classic country pate or rustic bread and they'll glaze over. Frankly, I am going on strike. I want to encourage others to do the same. By no means am I saying we need to be Euro-centric about this...it could be a great bowl of Pho! My point is lets celebrate the craft. Spread the word, invite over friends to make home-made pasta. Teach your children to make bread from scratch and most importantly, put a classic dish on your menu without an apology or a modern twist. Don't be lured in by the press tauting the next great culinary genius. The genius I am inspired by, is the ability to make the perfect baguette day after day.

Holiday Feast Revisited

I have spent years fighting the tide of tradition for holiday meals...turkey paella, what was I thinking??? This year I broke down and joined the rest of the world and cooked up a feast of the usual culprits. Slow roasted capon, shaved brussel sprouts with bacon and sherry, potato gratin, sweet potatoes with candied pecans, etc.

Anyway, for those who have begun following my humble prose...Happy Holidays to all and blessings of a joyful and productive New Year!

I will return with some New Year's thoughts on the state of menu development in a few days.
Best Wishes,
Jeff

Palate A.D.D.

That's A.D.D., as in "attention deficit disorder". That's how I feel sometimes when I am eating. I take a few bites and then I am ready for another flavor experience. There are very few things that I enjoy large portions of (eggs, cold cereal, pommes frites, ziti with meat sauce, really good chicken parm, pizza, the pork buns at momofuko, and a few other greats that I have had on my travels). All really simple, but perfect in their own way. Generally speaking by the tenth bite of a meal I am ready to move on. It's not that I am full, it's just "palate boredom". I can come back for more provided a different part of my tongue has been satiated. I think this is why I was so drawn to the tapas style of dining and therefore the inception of my former restaurant CIENTO. I think most people like small plate dining so they can sample a variety of flavors but for me its all about "flavor attention span"...perhaps I am on to something here. There must be a link between cravable foods and foods that hold the palate's attention. Perhaps its the way your palate and diet evolve as a chef - so many years of standing and grazing on the line. Eating the few slices of duck breast that don't make it to the plate, the first crepe out of the pan, the braised lamb shank that fell off the bone as you removed it from the broth, the first few meatballs as you are testing the seasoning. Basically, you eat your way through the day...if wine is nearby, what could be better?